Tag Archives: New Hampshire ice climbing

Two Days on Cannon

The Ghost, on Cannon Cliff is named for the white brush stroke on the big wall section of the cliff.  The Ghost IV 5.7 A3 is a summer aid line often linked with the Ghost Roof IV 5.9 A4.  Once linked up they make a grade V aid climb that is great training for big [...]

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New tools.

Every time I get new ice tools I feel like a kid at Christmas time. I want to run out and climb the closest chunk of ice I can find. Perhaps it is because I am a guy and guys like tools. When I started ice climbing, a friend Eugene Woody, took me to the [...]

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Family Camping

Unexpected bivies are notorious for being cold and uncomfortable that is just part of the deal. I have had only one unexpected bivy in my 18 years of climbing and that was in the front country. However I have had a few planned bivies that were cold and uncomfortable. One was this past fall on [...]

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Mt. Washington; tale of two days.

bootin Mt. Washington: the tale of two days. “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.” Over the Easter weekend I went up on Mt Washington for some ski mountaineering with Mike and Chad from the Adirondacks. The objective was to train for their future ski descent of Mt Rainer. Saturday [...]

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Chamonix France

The snow gods love to play the game of temptation. When you know you shouldn’t, they make it the most compelling to try. Once you have put all the time into planning, training and juggling a ski trip it is best when the weather cooperates. Well on this past trip to Chamonix there were times [...]

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Valley Blanche, Chamonix

Here in Chamonix it seems life would be simple, you are here to ski or climb, you get up in the morning sip your espresso and have a little bread and cheese and off you go. The trouble is that the weather does not always cooperate. I have been here for three perfect days of [...]

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Oh Canada!

Oh Canada! That’s the feeling you get driving down the Ice Fields Parkway or bumping down the four-wheel drive roads of the Ghost in Alberta. I recently spent 8 days ice climbing up there with Eugene Kwan and we had a taste of everything. Our first day in the Ghost we enjoyed some four wheeling to [...]

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Cold, Rain, and Snow!

Cold, Rain and Snow. It the past week we have had it all, which has produced interesting conditions. The ice climbing at this point in the season is usually fat and safe everywhere but now it is fat and maybe not so safe. It is these conditions precisely that make ice climbing interesting and uniquely [...]

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The Coldest day of the Year.

The coldest day of the year has been January 1, 2009. It is not hard to hold a record three days into the new year but I thought it was a great way to start a new year with temps below zero. I was scheduled to be guiding Michael and Brian Sands on an alpine [...]

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Nepali Style

  Freddie and Kevin on summit ridge     Kevin entering the mixed upper headwall.         I have been home now for less than two days and I must admit they have been spent simply hanging out with my family.  Getting up at 4am with Eliza, our one year old, is a [...]

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