Tag Archives: Ben Gilmore

Around the next corner?

Winter is chugging along as we draw closer to March.  The warm February days and cold nights are helping some climbs fatten up while others with no snow above or with full southern aspect are getting beaten up pretty good.  Tales of 75 foot falls riding pillars off from the Promenade at Lake Willoughby make [...]

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Nuptse

I dial my home number from half way around the world. The satellite phone rings a few times then I hear “Hi daddy where are you?” Tears flow down my face and disappear into the monsoonal rain. I have been on a dozen expeditions since becoming a father. I have two beautiful daughters, Annika (5) [...]

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Another kind of epic

Who would have thought that a holiday road trip could be far more challenging and dangerous than alpine climbing!  I barely survived an epic road trip to South Carolina for Thanksgiving. Maybe I wasn’t paying attention as Claire’s uncle said grace, but by God; I am thankful.   It all started with my family reunion [...]

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Summit day.

Kevin Mahoney, Ben Gilmore and Freddie Wilkenson reached the summit of the North face of Kangtega (22,241′) in Nepal on October 26th. I received a brief phone call this morning from Kevin to let me know that they were successful and they are all safely back at base camp. The details were very few. Sounds like it was quite [...]

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MT Willard; little big Mountain.

Three days on Mt. Willard in March reminded me why it is one of the best little mountains around. Mt Willard is only 2865 feet tall, which is even small by New England standards, and the southeast face is only 800 feet if you include every slabby inch of it. Most of the routes are [...]

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The Sounds of Freezing

I have looked up at the line for eight years now. It had always seemed out of reach and too committing. What changed? Last year Josh Hurst and I put up a variation finish to The Last Gentleman at Lake Willoughby. We called the pitch the Family Man M7 NEI5+. It was a stellar line [...]

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