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Ham and Eggs, the Mooses Tooth.

The best way to approach the Mooses Tooth

The best way to approach the Mooses Tooth

Base camp on the Root Canal.

Base camp on the Root Canal.

Ham and Eggs on the West face of the Mooses Tooth was first climbed thirty years ago but it has only been in the last ten years it has become popular, and for good reason.  I am not the authority on the Alaska range, but I believe it is the most accessible moderate climb to a super cool summit in the range.

The flight into base camp leaves the sleepy town of Talkeetna and carries you over what would take 5-6 days of hiking/swimming/wallowing/climbing/skiing to get to.  You sail past 5,000 foot monolyths like Mt Dickey and cornices blending into smooth granite ridge lines on Mt Johnson and mystifying lines leading to the summit of Mt Bradley.  The half and hour it takes slips by while you wonder if you are there to climb or just site see.

Dale and Dori on the Wisdom Tooth

Dale and Dori on the Wisdom Tooth

After the flight you land on the Root Canal glacier and set up camp just below the the West face of the Mooses Tooth.  Ham and Eggs is the most obvious line on the West face.  I was there working for Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) to guide Dori and Dale Schmidt on the route.  Dale had climbed Ham and Eggs before but Dori had not.   After a warm up day we set out on the route in marginal weather.  Dale turns back at the Bergschrud due to a pulled muscle from snow shoeing.  Dori and I continue into the building storm hopeful that it will end soon.

After six pitches and endless spindrift we decide to turn around and join Dale. Spindrift on Ham & Eggs.

Spindrift on route.

Spindrift on route.

After a few days of tent time and stomping down the runway Dori and I return to Ham and Eggs, while Dale stays in camp with a 400 mm zoom lense to record  our progress.  This time the weather was perfect.  Pitch after pitch of fun climbing fell away from us as we worked our way up the sixteen pitches to the summit ridge.  The climbing on Ham and Eggs is perfect for the winter enthusiast, it has a variety of snow conditions, fun ice climbing and some interesting ice climbing, a little rock climbing and a few scratchy mixed climbing moves and the last ten minutes to the summit follows a corniced ridge looming above the 4,000 foot East face.   The descent is straight down the route, sixteen rappels and a little walking finds you back at camp enjoying an Alaskan Summer Ale.

Half way up Ham and Eggs.

Half way up Ham and Eggs.

Dori on the summit ridge.

Dori on the summit ridge.

Climbing Ham and Eggs is the best way to finish with winter and hang up your ice tools for the season and move into rock climbing mode.

Sunrise over the Ruth Gorge.

Sunrise over the Ruth Gorge.

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  1. New Hampshire Ice Climbing Ham and Eggs the Mooses Tooth | Outdoor Ceiling Fans - May 31, 2009

    [...] New Hampshire Ice Climbing Ham and Eggs the Mooses Tooth Posted by root 7 hours ago (http://newhampshireiceclimbing.com) The climbing on ham and eggs is perfect for the winter enthusiast it has a variety of snow conditions leave a comment name required mail will not be published required website outdoor activities on new hampshire ice climbing powered by wordpress theme the Discuss  |  Bury |  News | New Hampshire Ice Climbing Ham and Eggs the Mooses Tooth [...]

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